Crochet Beginnings Part 2: The Hook

Crocheting and writing have something in common: they both need a good hook.

That pun has been rolling around in my head for a week, I’m glad to finally share it with you. Your welcome. But seriously, getting a good crochet hook is important. 

Crochet hooks come in all sizes, materials, and shapes. As we discussed in crochet beginnings: part 1, size is very important. But, for reasons unbeknownst to me, there are a couple of different ways to measure size. You have US, English, and metric sizes.

Metric	US	UK
2.25mm		13
2.5mm	C/2	12
3mm		11
3.25mm	D/3	10
3.5mm	E/4	9
3.75mm	F/5
4mm	G/6	8
4.25mm
4.50mm	7	7
5.00mm	H/8	6
5.50mm	I/9	5
6.00mm	J/10	4
6.50mm	K/10.5	3
7.00		2
8.00mm	L/11	0

Some patterns will call for a 3.5mm, others will call for an E/4, and still others will call for a size 9.  The amazing thing is that they are all talking about the same hook.  I find this rather annoying.  Fortunately,  so long as you have a chart it’s not that difficult to decipher, just something to be aware of. Luckily, some hooks will be marked with multiple sizes, making it a little bit easier. It is also important to note that size can and will vary from brand to brand. This will affect your gauge, but don't let that scare you.  All it really means is you will want to make sure to use the same hook throughout a project to avoid sudden size differences in your stitches.  (Still not a big deal, but can make your work look tacky.)

Crochet hooks are made from different materials such as steel, aluminum, plastic, and wood. Some people can really tell the difference between these materials. So far, I have worked with all but wood and have found that the style of crochet hook was far more important than the material. Because of this, I’m not going to bother covering materials. If you want some more information on materials, check out  Marly Bird.

There are two types of hooks: in-line and tapered. 

in-line                                      tapered

                             

In- line hooks are, well, in line with the shaft of the crochet hook.  The size of the hook doesn’t change. Because of this, it is supposed to help keep your stitches even and discourages snagging of other stitches. The idea of a tapered hook is that the taper helps you stick the hook into a stitch, however, it can be harder to create even stitches. Personally, I much prefer the tapered and have never had a problem with uneven stitches. I have found that with the in-line hooks, my loops fall off regularly and if I recall, I snagged quite a few stitches.

There are also differences in crochet hook handles. You have ones that are plain so to speak, and ones that are designed to be ergonomic.

Top: plain hook

Bottom: ergonomic hook

Plain handles are just that: plain. Nothing fancy about them. Sometimes, when the crochet hooks are on the small side, these handles will cause wrist pain. This is where ergonomic hooks come in.

Ergonomic hooks are supposed to help with any hand or wrist pain you might have. They come in a bunch of different shapes and sizes and can look quite nice. Some are simply larger, some are contoured, and some look uncomfortable. Finding the right one will take some searching, as everyone has their own preference.


If you are trying to decide between the two, here are some additional things to keep in mind: I like plan hooks over ergonomic because the shaft length is longer. With ergonomic hooks I feel cramped, even though I’m not. However, I do find they usually provide a better grip then those with plain handle. My friend owns quite a few ergonomic hooks and thinks that your hands sweat less with them.


My suggestion is that before you buy a set, try one of each style with plain handles. If you find that your hand hurts after crocheting for long period of time, try some with ergonomic handles.  You may find that one style works better for you; or that it doesn’t matter. In the end it all comes down to personal preference.